Wiry, cracking jokes and captivating his audience with a freewheeling conversational style that befits decades spent hunting stories in troubled spots across the globe, William Finnegan seems game for anything. Today he’s itching to ride the North Shore swells, unfazed by danger after 60-plus years. But a hectic schedule has forced him to make do with the waters off Diamond Head, the site of some of his earliest surfing exploits.

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